Rockfax Description
(The South Pillar) The classic route up Stetind, giving a long but perfect mountain day out. The route is 13 pitches long and the main difficulties are concentrated in the upper 1/4 of the climb. The normal time for route is around 4 to 6 hours, though some teams take double this. Add in the approach and descent and a full mountain day is the result - maybe 12 hours car to car. Start on the The Kongelosjen (The King's Box) ledge on the crest of the buttress - don't be tempted further left.
1) N4+, 50m. Climb a slab and step right into a groove system.
Climb this to ledges.
2) N3, 50m. Easy slabs and cracks lead to a steeper section.
3) N4+, 50m. Climb grooves and cracks to below a clean right-leaning groove.
4) N5-, 50m. Undercut into the groove, then up this to a belay at the second ledge under a big steep groove just right of the crest.
5) N4, 15m. Traverse horizontally to the left to belay on a small exposed ledge. If you reach old bolts you have gone too far.
6) N5-, 50m. Climb over a bulge and up into a long groove. Climb this for around 20m then move right into a crack system and climb this to a belay at the foot of a bomb-bay chimney.
7) N4+, 50m. Climb the chimney and continue up cracks and grooves to ledges.
8) N4+, 50m. Climb more easily up cracks.
9) N5- 70m. Move out left and climb a finger-cracks up slabs then continue easily to the third big ledge. This avoids the rockfall area on the original line, though this is still climbable.
10) N6-, 50m. Above is a 40m pillar with grooves to either side. Climb up easy cracks to the left-hand groove and then up this past an old piton to a stance on top of the pillar.
11) N5+, 30m. Go up and left and climb the right-hand of two cracks. At its top, step left to stance on a large block below a beautiful right-slanting groove.
12) N6-, 40m. Climb the slanting groove with a couple of delicate moves, up to the right side of big roofs. At the top step right and then straight up a crack to an exposed ledge.
13) N3, 70m. Traverse right into an easy gully and follow this up left. A ramp leads back right to the summit plateau. © Rockfax

Arne Naess & Else Hertzberg 1936.

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Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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