Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

30m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant! Great positions, some of the biggest (and sharpest) jugs known to man, but steep rock and not one for a timid second. From the belay ledge, step down and make a tricky pull up across onto the wall to gain the base of a flake. Continue traversing left, going up and down a bit, as far as a tricky move up past a big undercut. Trend up leftwards from here towards the finishing corner, finish up this, or step left and belay on the ledge if you need to watch your second. © Rockfax

FA. W.Lounds, R.Williams 09/Sep/1984.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Top Five HVSs In The UK? , MUMC Ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , 2016 Targets , The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Pembroke Goalz , Extreme Girdle , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , Pre-MIA Wishlist , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , 24 For 2024! , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dream lines , Pembs Ticklist , Pembs Classics , All the climbs UKC said I should do South Wales TM , Phoebe & Rob visit Pembroke

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 11 May Show βeta
βeta: Nice crimpy climbing. Definite crux 1/2 way along. Simon dropped a red dragon cam into the sea, but we could see it on the wave-washed rocks, so I abbed down to get it, thus getting a bonus 2nd of 'Pugwash' HVS, though i had to pull on the abb rope to get to the starting ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice crimpy climbing. Definite crux 1/2 way along. Simon dropped a red dragon cam into the sea, but we could see it on the wave-washed rocks, so I abbed down to get it, thus getting a bonus 2nd of 'Pugwash' HVS, though i had to pull on the abb rope to get to the starting ledge.
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What a route! I think better then IDOWH. I thought it would be a crock of crap. Absolutely not. Flow - swinging like a happy chimpanzee between holds. Superb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a route! I think better then IDOWH. I thought it would be a crock of crap. Absolutely not. Flow - swinging like a happy chimpanzee between holds. Superb!
eldre070 21 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very steep but sooo juggy.
Show beta
βeta: Very steep but sooo juggy.
Emlyn Price 27 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Best route I've done in Pembroke proper adventure
βeta?
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βeta: Best route I've done in Pembroke proper adventure
stevethomas 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Best to ab in to the ledge as the down climb is harder than the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best to ab in to the ledge as the down climb is harder than the route
spikeyhelen 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The down climb to the belay ledge is extremely exposed with a difficult last move for wee people.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The down climb to the belay ledge is extremely exposed with a difficult last move for wee people.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stennis Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 192
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 195
Votes cast 201
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spacewalk

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)

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