Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.
Rockfax Description
One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you don't think is possible at the grade. Pleasure Dome must be one of the most classic examples of such a route. It is quite a hard E3 but it is only E3. Climb the rib to the right of the trench to a ledge. Step up to gain the flakeline and follow it rightwards with just enough runners and nowhere near enough foot-holds. Where it blanks out, make a hard move to a non-rest at the top of a rightwards-facing ramp. Move up to some good gear, then climb back down, then move up again and back down, and up and down. Finally pull up again, slightly right of the obvious line and move left to a ledge below the easy finishing corner. Sort your runners out to reduce the rope drag. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn, J.Perrin 06/Apr/1980.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Very good routes in the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Classic Lobs , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembroke Chris , Pembs Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Deema Mozayen | 29 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Both leader and second need 2x prusiks each! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Both leader and second need 2x prusiks each! |
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| Sam Ring | 1 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: wow Jus, you must be a really good climber, easy crux? wet holds! everyone bow to your superior! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: wow Jus, you must be a really good climber, easy crux? wet holds! everyone bow to your superior! |
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| Jus | 31 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Totally awesome route. Really easy crux, I thought, followed by a nifty rest on the sloping ramp. The rest holds were wet, but I still managed to de-pump enough. Great gear, quite easy and obvious to place. The rope drag kicks only kicks in when all the hard climbing is over, so that's ok. ;-) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Totally awesome route. Really easy crux, I thought, followed by a nifty rest on the sloping ramp. The rest holds were wet, but I still managed to de-pump enough. Great gear, quite easy and obvious to place. The rope drag kicks only kicks in when all the hard climbing is over, so that's ok. ;-) |
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| Fiend | 27 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard, particularly when greasy. The moves are okay but from the end of the easy (and excellent, the highlight of the route) bit of the traverse it all feels disconcertingly uphill. Good position to finish, which you'll probably notice most when you're looking down wondering if your ropes are stuck due to the drag ;). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard, particularly when greasy. The moves are okay but from the end of the easy (and excellent, the highlight of the route) bit of the traverse it all feels disconcertingly uphill. Good position to finish, which you'll probably notice most when you're looking down wondering if your ropes are stuck due to the drag ;). |
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| Chad123 | 2 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Oh do I wish I had gone for it a bit more, had five or six attempts at the up from the niche move before slumping on the ropes for a cheeky rest. Quite a tricky move with hidden holds leads you to the end quickly, but you've got to want it! Tough for grade as pretty darn pumpy ,the move right is quite exciting and the rest ledge is just not quite good enough - you don't get more pumped, but you don't recover either! Classic line and pretty amazing position above the waves, awesome stuff! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Oh do I wish I had gone for it a bit more, had five or six attempts at the up from the niche move before slumping on the ropes for a cheeky rest. Quite a tricky move with hidden holds leads you to the end quickly, but you've got to want it! Tough for grade as pretty darn pumpy ,the move right is quite exciting and the rest ledge is just not quite good enough - you don't get more pumped, but you don't recover either! Classic line and pretty amazing position above the waves, awesome stuff! |
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| John Alcock | 7 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surely one of the best E3s in Britain. Great moves in a stunning position and a spectacular butsafe fall potential from the crux. Good double rope technique essential and don't copy Ruth Taylor who kicked the nuts out of the top of the ramp as she moved past them. My partner Lorne took more than 3 hours to on-sight it. Another partner used his boot laces to prussik back to the crux after a fall. Is it a safe DWS? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Surely one of the best E3s in Britain. Great moves in a stunning position and a spectacular butsafe fall potential from the crux. Good double rope technique essential and don't copy Ruth Taylor who kicked the nuts out of the top of the ramp as she moved past them. My partner Lorne took more than 3 hours to on-sight it. Another partner used his boot laces to prussik back to the crux after a fall. Is it a safe DWS? |
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| Andy Farnell | 9 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely amazing route, incredible position. Not a hard E3, but make sure you get your ropes sorted to avoid hideous rope drag at the top (unlike me who didn't and got stupidly pumped in the top grove as I had to pull up the ropes every time I made a move). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Absolutely amazing route, incredible position. Not a hard E3, but make sure you get your ropes sorted to avoid hideous rope drag at the top (unlike me who didn't and got stupidly pumped in the top grove as I had to pull up the ropes every time I made a move). |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A stunning route, but I must hold the record for the longest clean ascent, with epic amounts of faffing, gibbering and generally getting pumped out of my mind! :) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A stunning route, but I must hold the record for the longest clean ascent, with epic amounts of faffing, gibbering and generally getting pumped out of my mind! :) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stennis Head
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Gravy Train
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Hollow Caves Bay)