UKH

33m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the tall corner above a small cave, where the ledge below the cliff drops down. Climb the corner then move back left and make a grovelling pull onto a ledge (possible belay). Move up and right into the higher corner and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Williams, M.Harber 12/Aug/1978.

Ticklists

Ultimate HVS ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS

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User Date Notes
Fiend 27 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good.
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above).
βeta?
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βeta: I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above).
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Only VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only VS
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner.
βeta?
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βeta: I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner.
John Alcock 1 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left.
βeta?
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βeta: Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left.
chris j 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fun :o)
βeta?
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βeta: Fun :o)
Albie 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS]. Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear. Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS]. Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear. Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds.

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Army Dreamers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(St. Govan's Head)
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