UKH

18m.

Rockfax Description
A fine open classic and high in the grade. Climb direct (loose block) or from the right to a huge flake, move up to some big rounded pockets then traverse right to a final steep crack. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Howard 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
shaun walby 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes.
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βeta: Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes.
craig h 1 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop.
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βeta: There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop.
shaun walby 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent.
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βeta: Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent.
Simon Caldwell 8 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then.
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βeta: I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then.
craig h 8 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level – feet level with the pockets. Nice climbing worth doing on a visit.
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βeta: The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level – feet level with the pockets. Nice climbing worth doing on a visit.
Duncan I 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear!
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βeta: There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear!
Simon Caldwell 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained.
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βeta: Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 42
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wedgewood Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(The Ravenstones)
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