UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
A devious but classic solution to this fine buttress. Climb the chimney (a high sling runner is naughty but normal) until it is possible to bridge along a low line of pockets and bounce onto the left-hand arete. Traverse left and up to a slot in the centre of the face - small gear. When suitably sorted, trend left to a shallow groove just short of the arete. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1973.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E2 ticklist, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Tick List for 2015/2016, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide), 3 Star Stanage, Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, Definitive *** Peak Grit, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, On Peak Rock, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Knowles 5 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Make sure to bring a yellow cam to place high and rich to protect your second on the crux moves
Show beta
βeta: Make sure to bring a yellow cam to place high and rich to protect your second on the crux moves
Andy Hobson 28 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic.
βeta?
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βeta: Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic.
Chris the Tall 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical
βeta?
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βeta: Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical
fenclimb 18 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone.
Owen W-G 27 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here! Don't forget to place a runner to the right of the topout else your second doesn't get to enjoy a top rope on the crux!
βeta?
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βeta: Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here! Don't forget to place a runner to the right of the topout else your second doesn't get to enjoy a top rope on the crux!
nick w 27 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route!
βeta?
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βeta: missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route!
Paul Evans 5 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit!
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit!
Gripped 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun.
βeta?
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βeta: Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun.
jonnyboy 24 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing.
βeta?
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βeta: Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing.
Robc 30 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route
Nick Smith - Climbers 1 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete?
The Pylon King 13 Dec, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 134
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 134
Votes cast 130
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Suspense

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lawrencefield)
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