Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A classic solution to this fine buttress. Climb the chimney (a high sling runner is naughty but normal) until it is possible to bridge out (facing inwards) along a low line of pockets and bounce onto the left-hand arete. Traverse left and up to a slot in the centre of the face - small gear. When suitably sorted, trend left to a shallow groove just short of the arete. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1973.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , 3 Star Stanage , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , The Eal List , Dunc's ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Justsomeclimber 3 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Can confirm the bridge is fine for anyone at least 5”7
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can confirm the bridge is fine for anyone at least 5”7
Rob Knowles 5 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure to bring a yellow cam to place high and rich to protect your second on the crux moves
Show beta
βeta: Make sure to bring a yellow cam to place high and rich to protect your second on the crux moves
Andy Hobson 28 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic.
Chris the Tall 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical
fenclimb 18 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone.
Owen W-G 27 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here! Don't forget to place a runner to the right of the topout else your second doesn't get to enjoy a top rope on the crux!
βeta?
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βeta: Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here! Don't forget to place a runner to the right of the topout else your second doesn't get to enjoy a top rope on the crux!
nick w 27 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route!
βeta?
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βeta: missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route!
Paul Evans 5 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit!
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit!
Gripped 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun.
jonnyboy 24 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing.
βeta?
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βeta: Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing.
Robc 30 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route
Nick Smith - Climbers 1 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete?
The Pylon King 13 Dec, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!)

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 151
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 147
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Dangler

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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