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18m.

Rockfax Description
Devious and worthwhile. Climb the crack on the left then traverse to the right arete. Up this awkwardly on its left-hand side then move left into the centre of the face to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Dick Brown 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular

Feedback

User Date Notes
Callum Dow 22 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Went more rightish in the gully so didnt exactly follow the line
βeta?
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βeta: Went more rightish in the gully so didnt exactly follow the line
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Felt really easy for the grade, gear is good when needed. Run out after crux but easy climbing. Nice route!
βeta?
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βeta: Felt really easy for the grade, gear is good when needed. Run out after crux but easy climbing. Nice route!
alan moore 12 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is hard but twin chimneys buttress is easy.
βeta?
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βeta: This is hard but twin chimneys buttress is easy.
leon 6 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: you can protect the move but it gets a bit run out (gear a bit below feet?) on the bit they've been talking about. positive holds the whole, a great route.
βeta?
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βeta: you can protect the move but it gets a bit run out (gear a bit below feet?) on the bit they've been talking about. positive holds the whole, a great route.
nigel pearson 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route. Delicate moves, with quite a bold feel about it, although the gear is actually very good.
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely route. Delicate moves, with quite a bold feel about it, although the gear is actually very good.
shaun walby 14 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Easy start up the crack and traverse out right,rig up some bomber gear (two cams stitched together)and take the crux.I didnt find it reachy just a tad bold as you have to trust a slightly delicate smear above you gear. If your footworks good its a breeze.
βeta?
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βeta: Easy start up the crack and traverse out right,rig up some bomber gear (two cams stitched together)and take the crux.I didnt find it reachy just a tad bold as you have to trust a slightly delicate smear above you gear. If your footworks good its a breeze.
Monk 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: You can protect that move! You are moving up from a big fat break that takes friends.
βeta?
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βeta: You can protect that move! You are moving up from a big fat break that takes friends.
Simon Caldwell 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Would have liked better protection (ie not below my feet) for the hard move up the arete! Would be a 3 star route if it weren't for the ease of escape into Mississippi Chimney.
βeta?
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βeta: Would have liked better protection (ie not below my feet) for the hard move up the arete! Would be a 3 star route if it weren't for the ease of escape into Mississippi Chimney.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 153
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 150
Votes cast 141
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

High Neb Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)