Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and tenuous finger-crack. Gain the base of the crack from the left via the big pocket or (harder) from below. Perfect wires protect thin layback moves at two-thirds height and the awkward finishing crack which is less bold than it used to be. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Ultimate E3 ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme 2018 , Peaks hard stuff , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader

Feedback

User Date Notes
henry james 20 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The final half metre of the crack is green and slimey - worth brushing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The final half metre of the crack is green and slimey - worth brushing.
Furry Goose 2 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The start is definitely easier if you happen to be approaching 2m in length
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start is definitely easier if you happen to be approaching 2m in length
Cyrees 31 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Found a small Camalot to the left made the finishing moves a lot less bold - definitely advise taking it!
Show beta
βeta: Found a small Camalot to the left made the finishing moves a lot less bold - definitely advise taking it!
jimlearonasmear 2 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The move to the pocket is a bit scary but after that it’s just mint climbing and gear.
Show beta
βeta: The move to the pocket is a bit scary but after that it’s just mint climbing and gear.

Logged Ascents

468 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 312 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 62
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queer Street

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

Loading Notifications...