Rockfax Description
From the pillar right of Devil's Chimney, pull right to access the hanging crack awkwardly. Climb this, via another hard move, then traverse rightwards to finish left of the top of Hell Crack. © Rockfax
FA. Ted Howard early 1950s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jonzza | 12 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: I found the easily-missed leftwards facing handhold at about chest height during the rightwards step into the crack is pretty helpful | ||
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βeta: I found the easily-missed leftwards facing handhold at about chest height during the rightwards step into the crack is pretty helpful |
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| Iain Thow | 3 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: If you're happy jamming I think this is only 4c. Lovely sustained route | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you're happy jamming I think this is only 4c. Lovely sustained route |
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| MeMeMe | 2 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Getting established in the crack to the right is the crux, the key is to step right and up confidently and jam the crack (two or three jams) to the break. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Getting established in the crack to the right is the crux, the key is to step right and up confidently and jam the crack (two or three jams) to the break. |
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| shaun walby | 14 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Found this quite technical for VS but there again it does let you know what your in for with the 5a bit.Leaving the the ladders needs a sequence of 2/3/jams moving above any gear you got in. The difficulties dont end with the crack either, once youve moved out right your home and dry.Good test if you think your about ready to lead HVS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Found this quite technical for VS but there again it does let you know what your in for with the 5a bit.Leaving the the ladders needs a sequence of 2/3/jams moving above any gear you got in. The difficulties dont end with the crack either, once youve moved out right your home and dry.Good test if you think your about ready to lead HVS. |
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The Brain
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Curbar Edge)