There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
From the pillar right of Devil's Chimney, pull right to access the hanging crack awkwardly. Climb this, via another hard move, then traverse rightwards to finish left of the top of Hell Crack. © Rockfax
FA. Ted Howard early 1950s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Iain Thow | 3 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you're happy jamming I think this is only 4c. Lovely sustained route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you're happy jamming I think this is only 4c. Lovely sustained route |
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MeMeMe | 2 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Getting established in the crack to the right is the crux, the key is to step right and up confidently and jam the crack (two or three jams) to the break. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Getting established in the crack to the right is the crux, the key is to step right and up confidently and jam the crack (two or three jams) to the break. |
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shaun walby | 14 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found this quite technical for VS but there again it does let you know what your in for with the 5a bit.Leaving the the ladders needs a sequence of 2/3/jams moving above any gear you got in. The difficulties dont end with the crack either, once youve moved out right your home and dry.Good test if you think your about ready to lead HVS. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found this quite technical for VS but there again it does let you know what your in for with the 5a bit.Leaving the the ladders needs a sequence of 2/3/jams moving above any gear you got in. The difficulties dont end with the crack either, once youve moved out right your home and dry.Good test if you think your about ready to lead HVS. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)