There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The thin crack is reached by a delicate traverse from the left or direct by a hard mantel. It provides finger-jams, runners and slippery footholds, and leads to the Right Twin Cave. Escape easily out right across the balcony or tackle the next route. © Rockfax
FA. Alf Bridge 1932.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , George is a real VS climber
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
ulastopka | 15 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I was a bit apprehensive to do the route as the traverse to the crack looked challenging and also there were tiny holds for feet but overall it was very nice route that lead to a balcony and twin cave. | ||
Show beta
βeta: I was a bit apprehensive to do the route as the traverse to the crack looked challenging and also there were tiny holds for feet but overall it was very nice route that lead to a balcony and twin cave. |
||||
slacky | 21 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is the obvious line, and I was most surprised when my friend who's several inches shorter than I made the long reach no probs, apparently a toe hook comes in very handy. If you get to the balcony, you should definately go for Hardings finish. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The direct start is the obvious line, and I was most surprised when my friend who's several inches shorter than I made the long reach no probs, apparently a toe hook comes in very handy. If you get to the balcony, you should definately go for Hardings finish. |
||||
jswindsor | 19 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: couldn't agree with comment about dirct start being the only proper way to begin route! This "alternative" start is a unique vs at stanage-try it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: couldn't agree with comment about dirct start being the only proper way to begin route! This "alternative" start is a unique vs at stanage-try it! |
||||
Albie | 12 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The entertainment comes from getting onto the shelf and attempting to stand up for the long reach to the break above. Decent protection from there on though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The entertainment comes from getting onto the shelf and attempting to stand up for the long reach to the break above. Decent protection from there on though. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)