Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand continuous crack directly, initially up an awkward right-facing corner. The crack is a good intro to the art of hand-jamming being both mild and very protectable. © Rockfax

FA. Herbert Hartley 1928.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , King of VDiff , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dominic 26 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky if you are no good at hand jamming
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky if you are no good at hand jamming
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is certainly HS 4b, a good route but the worst on the Trinity wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is certainly HS 4b, a good route but the worst on the Trinity wall.
Mutl3y 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Led this in January, then seconded today. The crux is figuring out how to get over the bulge at half height. If you get it right (like I did today) then it's 4a. It's hard to figure out though and I didn't find it at all obvious first time - making this feel awkward 4b/4c. A must-do-classic all the same.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led this in January, then seconded today. The crux is figuring out how to get over the bulge at half height. If you get it right (like I did today) then it's 4a. It's hard to figure out though and I didn't find it at all obvious first time - making this feel awkward 4b/4c. A must-do-classic all the same.
LakesWinter 8 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: severe 4b covers it, there is 1 hard move off a good ledge with a good runner at your waist, everything else is not too hard, a very good route though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: severe 4b covers it, there is 1 hard move off a good ledge with a good runner at your waist, everything else is not too hard, a very good route though
leon 28 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i think the crux on this one is tough for a s4a. felt hs 4b to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i think the crux on this one is tough for a s4a. felt hs 4b to me.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 362
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 330
Votes cast 304
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cave Crawl

Grade: S 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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