Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab has a tough start - hard unless you hop-it! Continue with care up pockets to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Barry Pedlar early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Stanage Popular red circuit , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Level 1 Peak Boulder Problems , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Grit solos hvs -e3 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab , Grit Top Rope Solo
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I too soloed this as a wibbly VS leader. The crux is jumpable off onto a good landing. a couple of 5b moves off the ground, then severe. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I too soloed this as a wibbly VS leader. The crux is jumpable off onto a good landing. a couple of 5b moves off the ground, then severe. |
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| Pythonist | 11 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Oh, come on folks! It's a 5c move off the floor and a nice 5b rockover two moves further up, following by jugs that might need a little gardening... And easy HVS 5c, but probably more V1. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Oh, come on folks! It's a 5c move off the floor and a nice 5b rockover two moves further up, following by jugs that might need a little gardening... And easy HVS 5c, but probably more V1. |
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| Monk | 20 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I would have thought this is similar to The Curse and Lost in France at Burbage North. The Crux is certainly lower than the crux of The Chant. 5c seems fair, but as with all short solos I'm not sure about the adjectival grade, certainly not E1 though. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I would have thought this is similar to The Curse and Lost in France at Burbage North. The Crux is certainly lower than the crux of The Chant. 5c seems fair, but as with all short solos I'm not sure about the adjectival grade, certainly not E1 though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Original Route
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)