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22m.

Rockfax Description
The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's top VS routes, though some odd souls don't rate it. Start in a leaning groove and climb this steeply to a bridged rest below bulges. Pass this awkwardly and then follow the flake crack above which eases gradually. © Rockfax

FA. Roy Horseman 1927.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, AMC Uni Ticklist, 50 of the Best, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kirill 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The block at mid-height won't be there for long. Better not to sit down for a picnic at the bottom of this route for the time being.
βeta?
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βeta: The block at mid-height won't be there for long. Better not to sit down for a picnic at the bottom of this route for the time being.
Martino90 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: There is a loose square block 4 meters from the ground
βeta?
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βeta: There is a loose square block 4 meters from the ground
Mutl3y 20 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though!
βeta?
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βeta: Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though!
Jus 22 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!!
βeta?
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βeta: Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!!
Si dH 24 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though.
Jon Greengrass 17 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall?
βeta?
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βeta: Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall?
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list?
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βeta: a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list?
shaun walby 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit.
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βeta: superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit.
gav p 21 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun.

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Votes cast 442
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Votes cast 425
Votes cast 421
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Moneylender's Crack

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)