8m.

Rockfax Description
Haul through the crack in the tip of the overhang. The start is f5. © Rockfax

FA. Howie Darwin 1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Grit Top Rope Solo

Feedback

User Date Notes
MNA123 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I came off this from the ledge after the initial crack, no gear in so decked out, fractured my elbow and shook myself up preety bad. Definately worth getting some gear in.
βeta?
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βeta: I came off this from the ledge after the initial crack, no gear in so decked out, fractured my elbow and shook myself up preety bad. Definately worth getting some gear in.
Pythonist 13 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I soloed this, and agree that the gear probably isn't worth it. Grab a spotter (or a mat, if you feel like cheating), and give it a go. I did a lot of up-downing before committing to the layback to pass the roof, but enjoyed the move thoroughly. Great small roof problem / route.
βeta?
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βeta: I soloed this, and agree that the gear probably isn't worth it. Grab a spotter (or a mat, if you feel like cheating), and give it a go. I did a lot of up-downing before committing to the layback to pass the roof, but enjoyed the move thoroughly. Great small roof problem / route.
Monk 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One of the large HB offset nuts fitted perfectly, but it's not a common piece of gear.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the large HB offset nuts fitted perfectly, but it's not a common piece of gear.
ericinbristol 6 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If you think there's any chance you'll run out of steam on this and come off, take the time to fiddle in a small nut in the crack: it is awkward to place and hard to tell if it's any good. I saw someone do a too casual job off this, come off, rip the nut, deck out. Not nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you think there's any chance you'll run out of steam on this and come off, take the time to fiddle in a small nut in the crack: it is awkward to place and hard to tell if it's any good. I saw someone do a too casual job off this, come off, rip the nut, deck out. Not nice.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)

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