Rockfax Description
A bit of proper class - how good is your rope-work? Start up the crack in the arete then head left to out-flank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an awkward traverse back to the right to gain the ledge round the corner. Finish direct. © Rockfax
FA. Maurice Linnel early 1930s.
Ticklists
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 50 more great HS routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Ticklist , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ViolentSciolist | 15 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Grab the corner of the arete with your right hand and step into a squat on the smear with your right foot. I have tiny hands. No fist jam needed. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Grab the corner of the arete with your right hand and step into a squat on the smear with your right foot. I have tiny hands. No fist jam needed. |
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| BertieP42 | 17 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack | ||
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βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack |
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| Jon Greengrass | 27 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete. |
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| Fidget | 3 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement! |
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| Richard Hession | 10 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right | ||
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βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 7 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :) |
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| leon | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds | βeta? | |
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βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds |
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| Stefan Kruger | 5 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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April Crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)