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22m.

Rockfax Description
A polished crack (4c?) and deep groove lead to the niche under overhang - The Birdcage. Traverse right to the exposed crack that skirts the roof. Low in the grade and a good first VS lead. There are also leftward escapes - a mild low one and an exciting high one. © Rockfax

FA. Cyril Ward 1922.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 14 In A Day, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, 100 Stanage stars, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 50 of the Best, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Stanage Wishlist, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Memorable Climbs, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Stanage Popular, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulastopka 15 May Show βeta
βeta: Quite tricky route especially in the groove groove under the overhang.
 
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βeta: Quite tricky route especially in the groove groove under the overhang.
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years.
NickST 3 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think.
Paul Tomo 19 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route.
βeta?
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βeta: Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route.
chrisclimber_1986 1 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes
βeta?
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βeta: site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes
fast eddie 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience.
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience.
Oli 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bit polished in places.
βeta?
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βeta: Bit polished in places.
victim of mathematics 11 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though.
βeta?
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βeta: Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though.
chriszxr 10 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it
βeta?
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βeta: first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it
Souljah 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route.
βeta?
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βeta: Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant!
βeta?
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βeta: brilliant!
tchnorton 23 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My second VS lead and first at Stanage. Think it was a soft touch at VS though I then happily led Mississippi BD moments later, so perhaps it was just a good day.
βeta?
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βeta: My second VS lead and first at Stanage. Think it was a soft touch at VS though I then happily led Mississippi BD moments later, so perhaps it was just a good day.
GrahamD 13 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult.
βeta?
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βeta: If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult.
Alun 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS...
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over.
Nutkey 20 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone!
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i liked the up bit and the traverse bit.
βeta?
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βeta: i liked the up bit and the traverse bit.
Simon Caldwell 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here!
βeta?
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βeta: Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here!
Budge 20 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Dirty and overated
βeta?
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βeta: Dirty and overated
gav p 21 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 479
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 453
Votes cast 438
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Birch Tree Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)