Rockfax Description
A polished crack and deep groove lead to the roof. Traverse right to the exposed crack that skirts the roof. There are also leftward escapes - a mild low one and an exciting high one - and an exposed direct at a slightly harder VS 4c. © Rockfax
FA. Cyril Ward 1922.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Popular , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Stanage Ticklist , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Toby nuttall | 9 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Double ropes! | ||
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βeta: Double ropes! |
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| Jessica_G | 5 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Probably one of the nicest VS routes I’ve done. Good pro, great positions. Someone had been for a poop at the top which was gross! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Probably one of the nicest VS routes I’ve done. Good pro, great positions. Someone had been for a poop at the top which was gross! |
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| Joel Sims | 28 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route, though someone left a massive poop at the top out. Thanks! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, though someone left a massive poop at the top out. Thanks! |
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| ulastopka | 15 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Quite tricky route especially in the groove groove under the overhang. | ||
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βeta: Quite tricky route especially in the groove groove under the overhang. |
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| Al Evans | 30 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years. |
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| NickST | 3 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think. |
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| Paul Tomo | 19 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route. |
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| chrisclimber_1986 | 1 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes | βeta? | |
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βeta: site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes |
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| fast eddie | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience. |
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| Oli | 2 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Bit polished in places. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bit polished in places. |
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| victim of mathematics | 11 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though. |
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| chriszxr | 10 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it | βeta? | |
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βeta: first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it |
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| Souljah | 11 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route. |
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| Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: brilliant! | βeta? | |
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βeta: brilliant! |
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| GrahamD | 13 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult. |
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| Alun | 11 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS... | βeta? | |
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βeta: i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS... |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over. | βeta? | |
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βeta: also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over. |
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| Nutkey | 20 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone! |
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| leon | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: i liked the up bit and the traverse bit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i liked the up bit and the traverse bit. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 14 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here! |
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| Budge | 20 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Dirty and overated | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dirty and overated |
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| gav p | 21 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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High Neb Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)