UKH

14m.

Rockfax Description
The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and, although well protected, it will seek out any weakness in your jamming technique. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, Severe Stanage, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1, To do, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs, LD's next grit trip(s), LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mutl3y 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again...
βeta?
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βeta: Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again...
Si dH 22 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though.
Big Steve 10 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times
βeta?
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βeta: I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said). The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux.
βeta?
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βeta: Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said). The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux.
Simon Caldwell 27 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'.
βeta?
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βeta: Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'.
Simon Caldwell 24 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up.
βeta?
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βeta: Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up.
The old James turnbull 25 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work.
βeta?
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βeta: climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 217
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 213
Votes cast 199
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ten Craters of Wisdom

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dovedale)
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