Rockfax Description
The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and, although well protected, it will seek out any weakness in your jamming technique. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Peak grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Ben12345 | 4 Jun |
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βeta: Really good route very protectable and safe, I found it harder than a few other HVS climbs I’ve done but the jamming is really sercure and confidence inspiring when you get it. | ||
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βeta: Really good route very protectable and safe, I found it harder than a few other HVS climbs I’ve done but the jamming is really sercure and confidence inspiring when you get it. |
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| Absendit | 28 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Get the start over and done with quickly. Good gear for the crux. Weaknesses in jamming were discovered ???? Note to self, don't do 10 other VS routes before getting on this one. | ||
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βeta: Get the start over and done with quickly. Good gear for the crux. Weaknesses in jamming were discovered ???? Note to self, don't do 10 other VS routes before getting on this one. |
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| Matt Barker | 10 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Proper grim, well protected throughout but found crux proper desperate, felt way harder than 5b moves I've done recently... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Proper grim, well protected throughout but found crux proper desperate, felt way harder than 5b moves I've done recently... |
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| Mutl3y | 24 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again... |
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| Si dH | 22 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though. |
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| Big Steve | 10 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times |
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| shaun walby | 10 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said). The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said). The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 27 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 24 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up. |
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| The old James turnbull | 25 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work. | βeta? | |
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βeta: climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Birch Tree Wall
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Black Rocks)