Rockfax Description
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is tricky to enter (good gear) and leads to an exposed slab. Head right to a ledge and a finish on jugs. Walk off right or finish up the short wall behind to reach the cliff top and the moor. © Rockfax
FA. Fergus Graham 1922.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Stanage Starred VDiffs , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Flying Buttress Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Stanage 'Difficults' , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , The Alf Bridge Challenge , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Stanage Ticklist , Dewimpification , Stanage Green Spot Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MattyDredge | 27 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Polished but still grippy enough. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Polished but still grippy enough. |
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| PaulJepson | 3 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams. |
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| Lsuze | 2 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy |
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| ulastopka | 15 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much. |
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| springfall2008 | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs | ||
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βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs |
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| SuePearson | 31 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD | βeta? | |
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βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD |
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| aztec_bums | 22 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun |
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| VS4b | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile. | ||
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βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile. |
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| Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr! | βeta? | |
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βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr! |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do... |
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| Nutkey | 31 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected. |
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| victim of mathematics | 9 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Heather Wall
Grade: HVD 3b ***
(Froggatt Edge)