There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is tricky to enter (good gear) and leads to an exposed slab. Head right to a ledge and a finish on jugs. Walk off right or finish up the short wall behind to reach the cliff top and the moor. © Rockfax
FA. Fergus Graham 1922.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Stanage Starred VDiffs , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Flying Buttress Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Stanage 'Difficults' , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , The Alf Bridge Challenge , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , Test Flying , test Andy 2 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Stanage Ticklist , Dewimpification
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MattyDredge | 27 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Polished but still grippy enough. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Polished but still grippy enough. |
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PaulJepson | 3 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams. |
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Lsuze | 2 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy |
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ulastopka | 15 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much. |
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springfall2008 | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs | ||
Show beta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs |
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SuePearson | 31 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD | βeta? | |
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βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD |
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aztec_bums | 22 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun |
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VS4b | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile. |
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Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr! |
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Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do... |
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Nutkey | 31 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected. |
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victim of mathematics | 9 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard. |
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Grade: HVD 3c ***
(Black Rocks)