There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A fair test of how the jamming is coming on! Traverse the horizontal break on solid lockers (or by a gripping dangle) out to the nose. Finish up the exposed juggy arete. © Rockfax
FA. Gilbert Ellis 1950.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Get out on Rock , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pascalo | 5 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Saving big gear for the (easy) second half can be found to be wise. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Saving big gear for the (easy) second half can be found to be wise. |
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Gentile01 | 11 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: excellent fun had to get eren to get me a gold cam! | βeta? | |
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βeta: excellent fun had to get eren to get me a gold cam! |
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Al Evans | 30 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-) |
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sheffieldchris | 29 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: too right ment right | βeta? | |
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βeta: too right ment right |
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Chris Craggs | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way! CC | βeta? | |
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βeta: Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way! CC |
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sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route |
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Si dH | 17 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe. |
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MeMeMe | 2 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it. The arete is very pleasant too (and very easy). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it. The arete is very pleasant too (and very easy). |
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nick w | 27 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in. |
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Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming |
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Jon Stewart | 8 Dec, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers) |
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shaun walby | 15 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam. |
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Jamie B | 5 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Ravensdale)