Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
From the boulder below the overhang, swing your feet into the break (honest) then shuffle round to the front face. A couple of moves of proper climbing are needed to reach the top. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Nat Allen, Wilf White 1953.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , ULMC Classics , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , In Peak Rock , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Big Boy Pants , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Weird and Wonderful , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , HVS Wishlist , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Peak grit , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben12345 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Felt like VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt like VS
ed edwards 30 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lead this route and carry a camera, just to capture your second’s comedy foot action. Priceless, and worth repeating, though will likely need a different partner each time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead this route and carry a camera, just to capture your second’s comedy foot action. Priceless, and worth repeating, though will likely need a different partner each time.
fmck 3 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I split my finger nail right through the middle on that roof flake. I must of grabbed it quickly and caught it on a crystal. Careful now!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I split my finger nail right through the middle on that roof flake. I must of grabbed it quickly and caught it on a crystal. Careful now!
Andrew_Bylina 10 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected route with unique moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well protected route with unique moves.
PaulJepson 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be careful putting cams in the flake after the slot. Our rope ended up running through and pushing it well deep into the crack. Managed to retrieve on ab with a lot of graft. A nut would be less likely to be lost to the crag!
Show beta
βeta: Be careful putting cams in the flake after the slot. Our rope ended up running through and pushing it well deep into the crack. Managed to retrieve on ab with a lot of graft. A nut would be less likely to be lost to the crag!
Pythonist 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree with everyone... Just good silly fun. No idea how you'd grade it, but leaving it at this grade means that no one will jump on it before they're at a level at which they will enjoy it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally agree with everyone... Just good silly fun. No idea how you'd grade it, but leaving it at this grade means that no one will jump on it before they're at a level at which they will enjoy it.
Skyfall 6 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun and well protected. Strangely it all makes sense once you are inserted into the slot. The finishing move up the wall above is quite interesting too, so at least you feel like you've done some "proper" climbing and earnt the HVS tick.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun and well protected. Strangely it all makes sense once you are inserted into the slot. The finishing move up the wall above is quite interesting too, so at least you feel like you've done some "proper" climbing and earnt the HVS tick.
Munir Hassan 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Although there's no way you can prepare for the scuttle into the slot at the climbing wall.
Show beta
βeta: Although there's no way you can prepare for the scuttle into the slot at the climbing wall.
Munir Hassan 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Plain silly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Plain silly.
Nick Smith - Climbers 1 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun! I wish I had a photo...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun! I wish I had a photo...

Logged Ascents

1322 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 147
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 147
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terrazza Crack

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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