There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The steep crack in the open corner is awkward to start (easiest on the right) then gives fine sustained bridging and laybacking. Protection is good throughout. © Rockfax
FA. Herbert Hartley 1928.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , York University Students path to greatness , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , 50 more great HS routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
cragtyke | 16 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easiest start is up the crack, large cam for protection then a quick layback. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Easiest start is up the crack, large cam for protection then a quick layback. |
||||
springfall2008 | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bottom is hard to protect but there is a nut just at the very bottom of the first flake. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The bottom is hard to protect but there is a nut just at the very bottom of the first flake. |
||||
Steve John B | 25 Sep, 2009 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable laybacking | ||
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable laybacking |
||||
Dominion | 24 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beatiful moves, good route, well worth the 3 stars. Awkward start, yes, but it wouldn't be HS without it... And on a dry September day, the friction was perfect! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beatiful moves, good route, well worth the 3 stars. Awkward start, yes, but it wouldn't be HS without it... And on a dry September day, the friction was perfect! |
||||
Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree wit hall, a very nice route. I bridged it all the way with one slight layback to stop me falling off near the top. Start is delicate, I came in from the right, starting right up the crack looked nails | ||
Show beta
βeta: Agree wit hall, a very nice route. I bridged it all the way with one slight layback to stop me falling off near the top. Start is delicate, I came in from the right, starting right up the crack looked nails |
||||
Gripped | 5 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A deserted Stanage, a sunset and April Crack; a fantastic finish to the evening. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A deserted Stanage, a sunset and April Crack; a fantastic finish to the evening. |
||||
leon | 13 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: tricky start. nice bridging and laybacking as you move up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: tricky start. nice bridging and laybacking as you move up. |
||||
LakesWinter | 22 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top is miles easier than it looks | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The top is miles easier than it looks |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)