Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The undercut flaky crack is awkward to access (4b for the short) because of the undercut start. Once reached, the main crack soon eases to a steep but juggy romp. . © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Stanage Popular Greens , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Pat Parsons | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: d | βeta? | |
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βeta: d |
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| Iker Perez del Palomar | 9 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: I left a red cam (1 1/3) stuck in the point where the crack divides in two (if I remember properly). | βeta? | |
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βeta: I left a red cam (1 1/3) stuck in the point where the crack divides in two (if I remember properly). |
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| Pythonist | 6 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Can't quite see any way around the first few moves in order not to make it 4b+, but after that a great solo warmup for the rest of the area. Severe feels about right in total. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can't quite see any way around the first few moves in order not to make it 4b+, but after that a great solo warmup for the rest of the area. Severe feels about right in total. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Balcony Buttress
Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)