Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to a cramped ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang by jamming/laybacking. Not that well named really. © Rockfax

FA. Len Chapman 1940.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Stanage , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mattwaltno123 15 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Came in from the right, still ticking
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Came in from the right, still ticking
Jules Lane 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First few moves are very tough, close to 5b but after that it’s lovely and not painful at all. The key layaway moves are lovely.
Show beta
βeta: First few moves are very tough, close to 5b but after that it’s lovely and not painful at all. The key layaway moves are lovely.
Jim Walton 30 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Just get your leg up and commit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just get your leg up and commit.
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start,was only seconding so after falling off about 8 times i just thought bollox to it and came in from the right. Nice top bit!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard start,was only seconding so after falling off about 8 times i just thought bollox to it and came in from the right. Nice top bit!
GrahamD 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I like jamming and was dissapointed to find there wasn't any !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I like jamming and was dissapointed to find there wasn't any !
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route - although I would be tempted to say that it's a stiff VS. Perhaps the only thing that bumps it up is the tricky start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route - although I would be tempted to say that it's a stiff VS. Perhaps the only thing that bumps it up is the tricky start.
Jon Greengrass 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The start felt solid 5a maybe 5b not one for a warm day. Cheeky leg hook under the roof gives a well needed shakeout. 1 perfect handjam and laybacking on enormous jugs lead through the overhang to the top. Completely painless.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start felt solid 5a maybe 5b not one for a warm day. Cheeky leg hook under the roof gives a well needed shakeout. 1 perfect handjam and laybacking on enormous jugs lead through the overhang to the top. Completely painless.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 162
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 156
Votes cast 140
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)

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