Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A classic with a bold - but easy - finish. The frustrating (and chipped) initial slab can be ascended in several places at 5a/b. From the ledge, climb through the bulge just to the right of the arete, to another ledge. Step down (low runners) and traverse across the slab to reach its right arete. Follow the right side of this to the top; mild but bold. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aither | 31 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route wouldn\'t say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I\'d probably say it was. Classic VS | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route wouldn't say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I'd probably say it was. Classic VS |
||||
| Bristol_Quornstar | 12 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place |
||||
| Dale Berry | 23 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy? | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy? |
||||
| Fidget | 2 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness. |
||||
| Si dH | 24 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)