Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Start on the rounded hold A and follow the holds leftwards, dropping down, then back up towards the left end of the block. Linked into its reverse is f7A+. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Veale.

Ticklists

Peak Bouldering's 7a's , Peak Bouldering - Eastern Grit bold-star up-problems - 7A+Bs , One Summer - Bouldering in the Peak , Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer , Ticklish , CUMC Ticklist , Rock cats getting strong , Memorable Climbs , Vladimir punterin , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , Traversing round , Peak Bouldering Traverses: 6a-7a , My Bouldering Ticklist , All the boulders , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , The grit list , Peak low 7s , Grit ambitions , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , My 2020 Goals , Peak 200 , Dream Grit Ticklist , Carlos Projects , Peak Problems for Short Ladies , Peakish Problemos for People who may or may not be Punters , Peak 7as , 30 Before 30 , Rebs' boulder season wishlist , LSMC to do , Winter Bouldering in the UK - 7's , Peak Boudering 3 Star 7a/+'s , JDs Gritstone Guide , Martin Veale Fab Boulders , Stanage V100 , Sheffield , Gritzerland , Road to 7c

Feedback

User Date Notes
mmclaggan 21 May Show βeta
βeta: Bottom of the crux hold has very recently broken off, perhaps last couple of days. Less sidepull available but still plenty of space so route/grade unaffected, especially if you go from the crimprail. It seems a touch worse now if you try to skip the crimprail and go straight to the crux hold
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom of the crux hold has very recently broken off, perhaps last couple of days. Less sidepull available but still plenty of space so route/grade unaffected, especially if you go from the crimprail. It seems a touch worse now if you try to skip the crimprail and go straight to the crux hold
Bo Clay 25 Jan Show βeta
βeta: i use the high heel, match the crimp then go L to poor intermidiate then bump again to jug,
Show beta
βeta: i use the high heel, match the crimp then go L to poor intermidiate then bump again to jug,
zack.projects 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Easier without the heelhook beta towards the end.. save your send go and just keep feet down low and bump hands along.. use the obvious feet (foot)
Show beta
βeta: Easier without the heelhook beta towards the end.. save your send go and just keep feet down low and bump hands along.. use the obvious feet (foot)
UKB Shark 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There is a special place in Hull for anyone who uses holds or heel hooks on the top of the boulder or doesn’t drop down to the crimps. Yes kids - it’s an eliminate, deal with it
Show beta
βeta: There is a special place in Hull for anyone who uses holds or heel hooks on the top of the boulder or doesn’t drop down to the crimps. Yes kids - it’s an eliminate, deal with it

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 209
Votes cast 200
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cradle to Grave

Grade: f7A ***
(Hillcar Wood)

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