Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab leads boldly to the break where a crucial mantel gains a standing position. A final difficult move up the pebbly slab remains. A right-hand variation is very inferior at E2 5c/6a depending on reach. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Bancroft 1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Pete's Peak Treats , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chad123 | 27 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted! |
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| IOAN D | 28 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!! |
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| Alun | 26 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off. |
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| goi.ashmore | 4 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft.. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft.. |
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| Cottie | 25 May, 2005 |
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βeta: I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route. |
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| Duncan I | 4 May, 2004 |
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βeta: 5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 18 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Excellent typical grit at its best! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent typical grit at its best! |
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| ian bryant | 2 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying. | βeta? | |
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βeta: my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying. |
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Delicatarius
Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)