UKH

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack in the left-hand wall to its top, then swing right past the arete before making a mighty stretch for the top. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Jackson 1981.

Ticklists

Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide)

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User Date Notes
Jon Greengrass 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: loved the bottom crack big reach off a stonking handjam to nice moves on finger locks then a thin handjam to reach the break. First go tried to traverse the break on handjams with feet on the wall but it was really gritty and got pumped out scrabbling around with the weight on my arms. Second go realised I could reach the foot ledge (I'm 6' 1") and traverse on that with my hands on reasonable holds in the break. Once round the corner a nice mantleshelf move leads to the top (crux of nuke the midges?)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: loved the bottom crack big reach off a stonking handjam to nice moves on finger locks then a thin handjam to reach the break. First go tried to traverse the break on handjams with feet on the wall but it was really gritty and got pumped out scrabbling around with the weight on my arms. Second go realised I could reach the foot ledge (I'm 6' 1") and traverse on that with my hands on reasonable holds in the break. Once round the corner a nice mantleshelf move leads to the top (crux of nuke the midges?)
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The long traverse is quite reach dependant. I'm 5'10" and could just about traverse with my feet on a ledge, and rest in a few places. A bit taller and it would be easy! ;-P
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The long traverse is quite reach dependant. I'm 5'10" and could just about traverse with my feet on a ledge, and rest in a few places. A bit taller and it would be easy! ;-P

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 10
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tower Face Direct

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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