UKH

16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes! © Rockfax

FA. Pat Fearneough 1961-63.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide), Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgiePorgie1 10 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is.
NuclearNev 29 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off).

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Style of Ascent
Lead
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Route of Interest

Lichen

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Chatsworth Edge)
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