Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand line of pockets - bold to start with fierce fingery climbing. The upper is a easier and safer - small cams useful. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Berzins 1979.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ropeboy 14 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Alien is much better holds a fall, was tested.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Alien is much better holds a fall, was tested.
nic mullin 13 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: friend zero in pocket looks ok, but ripped when i fell on it. also it blocks the best foothold for the crux reach. the fall onto a pad is ok, but high enough to be scary. good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: friend zero in pocket looks ok, but ripped when i fell on it. also it blocks the best foothold for the crux reach. the fall onto a pad is ok, but high enough to be scary. good route.
IainWhitehouse 23 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure how good a friend in the pocket would be. On the other hand, while the desmond ain't no fun I walked away from it (with a bouldering pad) and I guess you'd have to be pretty unlucky to be hurt badly if you use a pad.
Show beta
βeta: Not sure how good a friend in the pocket would be. On the other hand, while the desmond ain't no fun I walked away from it (with a bouldering pad) and I guess you'd have to be pretty unlucky to be hurt badly if you use a pad.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 17
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strangler

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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