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14m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb, steep and intimidating, but on good holds. Climb the deep groove to the left edge of the roof (thread). Step left onto the arete and pull hard to gain the juggy cracks above. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1915.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 50 of the Best, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Stan, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Beginner Peak Severe, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Stanage Solo, Stanage Severe Challenge, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Alexander_Metcalfe 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Polished in areas.
βeta?
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βeta: Polished in areas.
Christopher Owen 13 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete.
Fidget 1 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
βeta?
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βeta: At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
fenclimb 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in this atm
βeta?
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βeta: Birds nesting in this atm

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High HS
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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 112
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 113
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)