Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb, steep and intimidating, but on good holds. Climb the deep groove to the left edge of the roof. Step left and pull hard to the juggy cracks above. The direct start is HVS 5b. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1915.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stan , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Severe Stanage , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Stanage green spot starters , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Evelyn.h.h 7 May Show βeta
βeta: Good holds and good gears. Happy climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good holds and good gears. Happy climb.
Alexander_Metcalfe 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Polished in areas.
Show beta
βeta: Polished in areas.
Christopher Owen 13 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete.
Fidget 1 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
fenclimb 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in this atm
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting in this atm

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 122
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 115
Votes cast 124
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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