There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore. © Rockfax
FA. Roger Greatrick 1983.
Stanage HVS Challenge , Jem's Time in the Peaks , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Chris Craggs | 5 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: How about Led A Dance at True North? Chris | βeta? | |
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βeta: How about Led A Dance at True North? Chris |
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Paul Tomo | 5 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: This is a very good route to test your staying power and getting a good pump on. The footholds are a little hard to find if you are on the short side which makes you work harder to stay on. Loads of gear if you can hang on for long enough, it would be nice to find a route like this but just a little longer...Paul Tomo..Let me know if you find one.. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is a very good route to test your staying power and getting a good pump on. The footholds are a little hard to find if you are on the short side which makes you work harder to stay on. Loads of gear if you can hang on for long enough, it would be nice to find a route like this but just a little longer...Paul Tomo..Let me know if you find one.. |
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Si dH | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I got pumped absolutely solid on this and had to lower off within about 6 feet of the end. You have to work harder for both gear and holds than Id expected, there are very few "solid jams" and at 5ft11 there werent any footholds past about a 1/4 of th eway along. Very pumpy sloper dangling. Proper HVS, certainly, and I would say similar to Right Unconq in having no very hard moves (dont agree with 5b votes) but being extremely strenuous. Si | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I got pumped absolutely solid on this and had to lower off within about 6 feet of the end. You have to work harder for both gear and holds than Id expected, there are very few "solid jams" and at 5ft11 there werent any footholds past about a 1/4 of th eway along. Very pumpy sloper dangling. Proper HVS, certainly, and I would say similar to Right Unconq in having no very hard moves (dont agree with 5b votes) but being extremely strenuous. Si |
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Stone Muppet | 4 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seems to me that it's ok-ish HVS for the tall, but probably hard as nails for the short who can't reach half of the footholds? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seems to me that it's ok-ish HVS for the tall, but probably hard as nails for the short who can't reach half of the footholds? |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Duke's Quarry)