UKH

22m.

Rockfax Description
The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore. © Rockfax

FA. Roger Greatrick 1983.

Ticklists

Stanage HVS Challenge , Jem's Time in the Peaks , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet

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User Date Notes
Chris Craggs 5 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: How about Led A Dance at True North? Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How about Led A Dance at True North? Chris
Paul Tomo 5 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a very good route to test your staying power and getting a good pump on. The footholds are a little hard to find if you are on the short side which makes you work harder to stay on. Loads of gear if you can hang on for long enough, it would be nice to find a route like this but just a little longer...Paul Tomo..Let me know if you find one..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a very good route to test your staying power and getting a good pump on. The footholds are a little hard to find if you are on the short side which makes you work harder to stay on. Loads of gear if you can hang on for long enough, it would be nice to find a route like this but just a little longer...Paul Tomo..Let me know if you find one..
Si dH 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I got pumped absolutely solid on this and had to lower off within about 6 feet of the end. You have to work harder for both gear and holds than Id expected, there are very few "solid jams" and at 5ft11 there werent any footholds past about a 1/4 of th eway along. Very pumpy sloper dangling. Proper HVS, certainly, and I would say similar to Right Unconq in having no very hard moves (dont agree with 5b votes) but being extremely strenuous. Si
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I got pumped absolutely solid on this and had to lower off within about 6 feet of the end. You have to work harder for both gear and holds than Id expected, there are very few "solid jams" and at 5ft11 there werent any footholds past about a 1/4 of th eway along. Very pumpy sloper dangling. Proper HVS, certainly, and I would say similar to Right Unconq in having no very hard moves (dont agree with 5b votes) but being extremely strenuous. Si
Stone Muppet 4 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seems to me that it's ok-ish HVS for the tall, but probably hard as nails for the short who can't reach half of the footholds?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems to me that it's ok-ish HVS for the tall, but probably hard as nails for the short who can't reach half of the footholds?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 64
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Right-hand Tower

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)

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