UKH

22m.

Rockfax Description
A fine but devious pitch - care with rope-work is required. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left under the roof. Gain the groove awkwardly and climb it to a step right. Pull over a bulge then trend left past the arete to the juggy north-facing wall. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist, Stanage HVS Challenge, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, To do

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User Date Notes
Swig 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
 
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βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
Swig 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
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βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
GrahamD 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
βeta?
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βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
Andy Hobson 31 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
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βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
MNA123 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
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βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
Neil Morbey 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
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βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
Stefan Kruger 29 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
βeta?
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βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
Vics 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
βeta?
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βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
Mark S Davies 18 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice
βeta?
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βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 118
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 114
Votes cast 108
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Scoop Face

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Castle Naze)
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