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8m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand slab and juggy bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Cropper 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage Severe Challenge

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User Date Notes
orge 2 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was relatively "friendly" really... It is a bit bold, as the gear is not great and a distance away. However the moves aren't too hard and its not sustained. I actually felt Duo Cracks was more technical (but better protected). Both of them both of them are fine clims though.
βeta?
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βeta: Thought this was relatively "friendly" really... It is a bit bold, as the gear is not great and a distance away. However the moves aren't too hard and its not sustained. I actually felt Duo Cracks was more technical (but better protected). Both of them both of them are fine clims though.
Iain Thow 16 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: My girlfriend's daughter, not the most athletic person ever, seconded this as her second ever route, so definitely not VS!
βeta?
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βeta: My girlfriend's daughter, not the most athletic person ever, seconded this as her second ever route, so definitely not VS!
2RoyalAnglian 31 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i agree it is a commiting climb! funny enuf i lead this just after me & my mate had a bash at overhanging chimney & failed!!? i managedto get a no.2 cam in2 1 of the poks on the slab itself the rest of it was "on yer own son!!". a great climb.
βeta?
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βeta: i agree it is a commiting climb! funny enuf i lead this just after me & my mate had a bash at overhanging chimney & failed!!? i managedto get a no.2 cam in2 1 of the poks on the slab itself the rest of it was "on yer own son!!". a great climb.
Mal Grey 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree this is more than a tad bold for a Severe, as the protection is some way below & has to be carefully arranged. The crux could be 4a-4b, but no 4c. Somewhat committing though!
βeta?
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βeta: Agree this is more than a tad bold for a Severe, as the protection is some way below & has to be carefully arranged. The crux could be 4a-4b, but no 4c. Somewhat committing though!
Si dH 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I struggled up this one, although ive not been climbing long. Wasnt sure if I could use the left-hand arete higher up, but if not its definitely hard for severe.
βeta?
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βeta: I struggled up this one, although ive not been climbing long. Wasnt sure if I could use the left-hand arete higher up, but if not its definitely hard for severe.
Simon Caldwell 11 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed, not even approaching 4c, but definitely bold (protection below feet unless you sneak right to put gear in Uno Cracks). Maybe HS 4a.
βeta?
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βeta: Agreed, not even approaching 4c, but definitely bold (protection below feet unless you sneak right to put gear in Uno Cracks). Maybe HS 4a.
Dale Berry 10 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The last 2-3m before the jug-fest finnish are a tad bold and certainly at the top end of severe. However I did climb it on probably the hottest part of the hottest day of the year and suspect it would be a lot more friendly in cooler conditions. Absolutely not 4c; maybe bottom 4b?
βeta?
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βeta: The last 2-3m before the jug-fest finnish are a tad bold and certainly at the top end of severe. However I did climb it on probably the hottest part of the hottest day of the year and suspect it would be a lot more friendly in cooler conditions. Absolutely not 4c; maybe bottom 4b?
Monk 13 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Admittedly I was soloing so not thinking of gear but those top moves are never 4c (although they are the crux). I think Severe is about right. Definitely too easy for VS.
βeta?
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βeta: Admittedly I was soloing so not thinking of gear but those top moves are never 4c (although they are the crux). I think Severe is about right. Definitely too easy for VS.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 83
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Crack and Corner

Grade: S 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)