Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An amazing ascent for its day - it still sees much floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves to a poor rest on the block under the roof. Bridge right along the lip and make a hard move up and right to reach holds on the wall. Finish easily. © Rockfax
FA. Morley Wood 1926.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , The Peak: Past and Present , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The Gritlist , UK Sandbags , Stanage HVS Challenge , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 193 | 3 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: not been Extreme for almost 100 year , | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: not been Extreme for almost 100 year , |
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| Alan James - UKC and UKH | 9 May, 2022 |
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βeta: There seems to be some confusion about where to go once at the lip on this route. This is the original line so you take the best and easiest option. For most climbers that will be bridging upwards to reach the break above and then moving right. There are other ways of moving more directly right using undercuts and/or poor layaways but these are mostly harder (unless you are not very tall). This does mean that one move is shared with Mouthpiece. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There seems to be some confusion about where to go once at the lip on this route. This is the original line so you take the best and easiest option. For most climbers that will be bridging upwards to reach the break above and then moving right. There are other ways of moving more directly right using undercuts and/or poor layaways but these are mostly harder (unless you are not very tall). This does mean that one move is shared with Mouthpiece. |
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| Pythonist | 15 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof! Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof! Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 26 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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The Eye of Faith
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)