UKH

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb The Green Streak to a delicate traverse out right onto the hanging slab. The crux follows - a low cam in a pocket may protect the start of the difficulties. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Grit solos hvs -e3

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User Date Notes
Duz Walker 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Felt more HVS to me, certainly no worse than Sunset Slab. Solo the easier routes hereabouts first would be my advice. My gear was probably pish but somehow (the chunkiness of the pebble helped) it never seemed to matter. Decked from Valediction later though.
βeta?
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βeta: Felt more HVS to me, certainly no worse than Sunset Slab. Solo the easier routes hereabouts first would be my advice. My gear was probably pish but somehow (the chunkiness of the pebble helped) it never seemed to matter. Decked from Valediction later though.
alan moore 18 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I did the higher traverse (5a), descending slightly to gain the footpocket at the start of the difficulties. Found the pebble pulling to be hard...harder than Kayak at Curbar. No gear except a side runner before leaving Green Streak;stupid really. Better fall in the puddle.
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βeta: I did the higher traverse (5a), descending slightly to gain the footpocket at the start of the difficulties. Found the pebble pulling to be hard...harder than Kayak at Curbar. No gear except a side runner before leaving Green Streak;stupid really. Better fall in the puddle.
Andy Hobson 3 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A good route; the traverse is definately the crux, the moves up the slab are 5a at most and straighforward once you commit to them. Didn't spot many opportunites for worthwhile gear.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route; the traverse is definately the crux, the moves up the slab are 5a at most and straighforward once you commit to them. Didn't spot many opportunites for worthwhile gear.
slacky 17 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent fun, thoughtful, balancy moves on the traverse and the slab. Personaly I couldn't find the friend placement on the right at the end of the traverse (perhaps as I was too high?), but this provided an extra deterrent against slipping on the top section of the slab! Well worth doing.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent fun, thoughtful, balancy moves on the traverse and the slab. Personaly I couldn't find the friend placement on the right at the end of the traverse (perhaps as I was too high?), but this provided an extra deterrent against slipping on the top section of the slab! Well worth doing.
Charles Arthur 15 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You can traverse or go straighter up, as I recall... but either way looks about the same difficulty. Good fun - makes you think, as a good slab should.
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βeta: You can traverse or go straighter up, as I recall... but either way looks about the same difficulty. Good fun - makes you think, as a good slab should.
Monk 15 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Although the traverse was tricky I thought the moves up the slab were the (psychological?) crux. I'm not convinced that the low friend would actually keep you off the ground if you muffed the move. Good route.
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βeta: Although the traverse was tricky I thought the moves up the slab were the (psychological?) crux. I'm not convinced that the low friend would actually keep you off the ground if you muffed the move. Good route.
ericinbristol 6 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Yep, you can get two Friends in. hard to tell whether the traverse low down or the step up higher up is harder... Lovely route
βeta?
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βeta: Yep, you can get two Friends in. hard to tell whether the traverse low down or the step up higher up is harder... Lovely route
Colin Scotchford 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: There's a solid friend 3.5 placement out to the right and below the level of the small friend
βeta?
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βeta: There's a solid friend 3.5 placement out to the right and below the level of the small friend
Horse 14 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The book suggests freinds ie more than one, well I couldn't find more than a single small one.The bloke in the photo on this page has not even reached the crux never mind got past it. Good route, quite bold really, solid for the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: The book suggests freinds ie more than one, well I couldn't find more than a single small one.The bloke in the photo on this page has not even reached the crux never mind got past it. Good route, quite bold really, solid for the grade.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 72
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Ivory Tower

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)
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