UKH

28m.

Rockfax Description
Climb a scoop to the bulges and power diagonally right over these to a deep crack. Forceful climbing leads to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Derek Beetlestone 1979.

Ticklists

Pete's Peak Treats

Feedback

User Date Notes
Blake 27 Apr Show βeta
βeta: There's something off with the line and descriptions in the BMC guide and Rockfax... they both imply you move direct up the featureless wall between the corner and the start of Cathy's Clown - this can't be right. I looked at a couple of old guides and they imply that what is shown in the newer guides as the start for Cathy's Clown up the obvious crack system is really the start for Liquid Courage and Cathy's Clown goes direct up the thinner crack further left and more in line with the route. This makes a lot more sense as the non line in the new guides isn't E1.
βeta?
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βeta: There's something off with the line and descriptions in the BMC guide and Rockfax... they both imply you move direct up the featureless wall between the corner and the start of Cathy's Clown - this can't be right. I looked at a couple of old guides and they imply that what is shown in the newer guides as the start for Cathy's Clown up the obvious crack system is really the start for Liquid Courage and Cathy's Clown goes direct up the thinner crack further left and more in line with the route. This makes a lot more sense as the non line in the new guides isn't E1.
Paul Evans 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No 5c moves, hard E1 (if you take all the rests and use your loaf) or easy E2. Lovely route.
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βeta: No 5c moves, hard E1 (if you take all the rests and use your loaf) or easy E2. Lovely route.
John H Bull 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitive E1 5b, or have I lost weight?
βeta?
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βeta: Definitive E1 5b, or have I lost weight?
John2 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the low grade E2 5B comments. It is possible to rest after all the hard moves and the protection is bombproof.
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βeta: Agree with the low grade E2 5B comments. It is possible to rest after all the hard moves and the protection is bombproof.
Katya 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The E3 6a variation - moving left at half height and fiishing direct (right of Cathy's..)- is worth a mention. A bit dirty at present, but quality climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: The E3 6a variation - moving left at half height and fiishing direct (right of Cathy's..)- is worth a mention. A bit dirty at present, but quality climbing.
The Pylon King 22 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, exactly where is the 5c move? good route though
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βeta: Yeah, exactly where is the 5c move? good route though

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book

Guidebook Correction

Peak Limestone (2020)

Alan James - UKC and UKH
22 Apr

Topo has line for Cathy's Clown and Liquid Courage too far to the right

View correction image
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 69
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Millsom's Minion

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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