Rockfax Description
Excellent, the best of its grade here, following the sinuous crack-line that runs the full height of the face. A steep and technical start leads to easier sustained climbing (threads) and on up pleasantly sustained rock above. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Dearman (2 pts) 1969.
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Eal List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rob M | 14 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: A very special climb & the perfect partner. For some reason I thought it was only a VS 4c on the way there, when I saw it & was told the grade I thought "I can't do that!" So I lead the one near the arete for a warm up then gave it a go. It went & I don't know if it was just because of my reach or initial fear & level of concentration but it's not a 5b! Possibly only just a HVS also given the perfect positions for wires, perhaps it gets it due to the pollish on the first few foot placements but a quality route & very enjoyable none the less. | ||
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βeta: A very special climb & the perfect partner. For some reason I thought it was only a VS 4c on the way there, when I saw it & was told the grade I thought "I can't do that!" So I lead the one near the arete for a warm up then gave it a go. It went & I don't know if it was just because of my reach or initial fear & level of concentration but it's not a 5b! Possibly only just a HVS also given the perfect positions for wires, perhaps it gets it due to the pollish on the first few foot placements but a quality route & very enjoyable none the less. |
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Fidget | 6 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: What a great route! I fell off near the start - used the wrong foothold which was a little polished and reached up too far for a pocket so my foot slipped, but when I found a more useful foothold it was all go from there. I still feel like I led a whole route, as it's so long! The first half is great, and right on the edge of my ability - I was trying to use my feet as well as I could to take the weight off my arms and stop me getting too pumped, but it took all I had to keep going until the rest on the ledge, the holds got bigger and bigger approaching it but I was less and less able to use them! I had to wait for ages to get back my feeling then my strength (all my fingers tendond still feel tweaked) before I carried on. There's an easy section with cool rock, then some more thoughtful bits as Souljah said (although I didn't do any of the high footwork mentioned, quite unlike me in fact). The gear is perfect too, in fact I have no reason to fault this route at all! | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a great route! I fell off near the start - used the wrong foothold which was a little polished and reached up too far for a pocket so my foot slipped, but when I found a more useful foothold it was all go from there. I still feel like I led a whole route, as it's so long! The first half is great, and right on the edge of my ability - I was trying to use my feet as well as I could to take the weight off my arms and stop me getting too pumped, but it took all I had to keep going until the rest on the ledge, the holds got bigger and bigger approaching it but I was less and less able to use them! I had to wait for ages to get back my feeling then my strength (all my fingers tendond still feel tweaked) before I carried on. There's an easy section with cool rock, then some more thoughtful bits as Souljah said (although I didn't do any of the high footwork mentioned, quite unlike me in fact). The gear is perfect too, in fact I have no reason to fault this route at all! |
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Souljah | 17 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: A nice technical start then eases into a long enjoyable climb with some big pockets and high footwork. Another tricky move 3/4 of the way up wakes you up for the top-out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A nice technical start then eases into a long enjoyable climb with some big pockets and high footwork. Another tricky move 3/4 of the way up wakes you up for the top-out. |
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mat_galvin | 17 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route. Great pro. Great location! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Great pro. Great location! |
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Chris the Tall | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route, crux at the start, so you can enjoy the rest of route in comfort | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, crux at the start, so you can enjoy the rest of route in comfort |
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Dave Mason | 26 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable route |
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Ropeboy | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: A very good line, worth all 3 of it's stars. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very good line, worth all 3 of it's stars. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)