Restricted Access
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
Fine sustained tufa climbing; technical and balancy despite its steepness. Climb the wall via a couple of bulges to an open groove and easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Burke, George Cooper 1981.
Ticklists
World Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , UK Flowstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John H Bull | 3 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Darius? Scoop Wall? Widely reckoned to be E3 if comments on this database are anything to go by. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Darius? Scoop Wall? Widely reckoned to be E3 if comments on this database are anything to go by. |
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| soph | 19 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Just thought I would add that this route is very safe with easy to place gear - as placments are quite worn. It is def sustained with no real rests - but very nice climbing too. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just thought I would add that this route is very safe with easy to place gear - as placments are quite worn. It is def sustained with no real rests - but very nice climbing too. |
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| Fiend | 10 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Good route that could do with a pumpy symbol, because it is. Intricate climbing and some great rock features. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route that could do with a pumpy symbol, because it is. Intricate climbing and some great rock features. |
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| phatlad | 6 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: not hard E2 just E2, never seen E3 in it's life | βeta? | |
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βeta: not hard E2 just E2, never seen E3 in it's life |
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| John2 | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I only seconded this one, but I agree with what the previous comment says - solid E3 and hard work getting the gear in and out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I only seconded this one, but I agree with what the previous comment says - solid E3 and hard work getting the gear in and out. |
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| John H Bull | 4 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Seemed solid E3 to me. Hard to get the crucial gear, no real rests, sustained, crux when you're pumped, all those things say E3. Downgrading the 'amenable E2s' eg Captain Reliable seems more appropriate. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seemed solid E3 to me. Hard to get the crucial gear, no real rests, sustained, crux when you're pumped, all those things say E3. Downgrading the 'amenable E2s' eg Captain Reliable seems more appropriate. |
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| Katya | 14 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Yeah, but it is only a hard E2 in reality - easier than Scoop Wall etc and plenty of others... Just E3 compared to Stadens ameanable E2's | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yeah, but it is only a hard E2 in reality - easier than Scoop Wall etc and plenty of others... Just E3 compared to Stadens ameanable E2's |
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| Carl Smethurst | 3 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: In the 1987 Stoney guide, this was reckoned to be the 4th hardest _E3_ at Staden. | βeta? | |
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βeta: In the 1987 Stoney guide, this was reckoned to be the 4th hardest _E3_ at Staden. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Staden Quarry
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this bookGuidebook Correction
Peak Limestone (2020)Topo has line for Cathy's Clown and Liquid Courage too far to the right
View correction imagePlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Billy Whizz
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lawrencefield)