UKH

130m, 6 pitches. A reasonable climb and low in the grade. You'll find large hexcentrics to be of use. Start at the far west-side of No2 buttress, 10m left of a small square recess. Pitch 1 (15m 4b) Climb the steep crack to a ramp, move up blocks and belay in a corner on the right-hand side of a ledge. Pitch 2 (10m) Climb the corner, and then the right-slanting offwidth crack, belay on a fine ledge. Pitch 3 (20m 4a) Tackle the short steep wall, which offers a nice thread runner, up to a choice of corners. Take either one, moving right under a bulge to belay on a large ledge. Pitch 4 (20m) Romp up the slab on the left, and trend right to the tower. Once at the foot of the tower, step down and left onto a grassy ledge to a delightful thread belay and a boulder seat. Pitch 5 (40m 4a) Climb the short crack and then enjoy a knife-edge traverse towards the headwall, take the easiest line to another jolly nice ledge and a huge spike belay. Pitch 6 (25m 4a) Traverse left, bypassing the huge gully to a crack and a dissapointingly vegetated groove. Climb and trend slightly right up blocks to a choice of belays. Si Lynch 2009.

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sharpendadventures 16 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 3 + 5 (combined 1+2). Not bad. Loose massive blocks on pitch 5 precariously perched on the ridge traverse. Pitch 6 is mega veg.
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βeta: Pitch 3 + 5 (combined 1+2). Not bad. Loose massive blocks on pitch 5 precariously perched on the ridge traverse. Pitch 6 is mega veg.

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Black Magic

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Reiff - Rubha Coigeach)
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