UKH
32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two enjoyable traditional pitches. Start below a vegetated recess with lots of ivy on its right edge.
1) 4c, 13m. Head up into the recess. Follow cracks out of it to reach the large central overhung niche and belay on its left.
2) 5a, 19m. The chimney just above the belay is a bit of a grunt but soon ends at a slabby gangway. Follow this up and left to a short groove that is climbed to reach top of the crag. © Rockfax

Ticklists

CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , South West Coastal Solo

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Guidebooks for St. Loy Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
West Country Climbs Cover
West Country Climbs (2022)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
West Cornwall: Chair Ladder, the South Coast and the Lizard (Volume 2) Cover
West Cornwall: Chair Ladder, the South Coast and the Lizard (Volume 2) (2017)
The Climbers' Club
By Paul Harrison, David Hope
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unknown on Little Brown Jug
Little Brown Jug

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Bosigran)

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