35m.
Access is gained by walking to the ‘Mistress Stone’ from Harbour Village; pass under the mistress stone and scramble down to abseil point. Abseil access as for Boat Race.
Belay from slabs at the base of the face, just above the sea. From here climb up trending leftwards through cracks until below the left end of the distinct horizontal roof. Climb up to below the left end of this roof (arrange good cams). Climb over the left end of roof into laybacks up the left side of the distinct upside down V-feature (highly visible from below or sea). Strenuously place gear here, make hard off balance barn door moves up the layback to strenuous undercuts and poor sidepulls. Leave the upside down V and continue straight up the face to the large ledges below large roofs. A tricky right traverse with a sting in the tail mantel allows access to the ledges below the abseil; climb up and out.
Belay from slabs at the base of the face, just above the sea. From here climb up trending leftwards through cracks until below the left end of the distinct horizontal roof. Climb up to below the left end of this roof (arrange good cams). Climb over the left end of roof into laybacks up the left side of the distinct upside down V-feature (highly visible from below or sea). Strenuously place gear here, make hard off balance barn door moves up the layback to strenuous undercuts and poor sidepulls. Leave the upside down V and continue straight up the face to the large ledges below large roofs. A tricky right traverse with a sting in the tail mantel allows access to the ledges below the abseil; climb up and out.
FA. Sam Tolhurst 08/Jun/2018.
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Guidebooks for St Kilda
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Route of Interest
Mhòr Air
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Sandray)