UKH

36m.

Rockfax Description
The first half of this route gives some of the best steep crack climbing around. Higher up the crack is much wider and easier to climb. Climb the twin thin cracks in the lower wall, with increasing difficulty and some haste - don't place too much gear - until a last difficult pull up and left gains a rest. Climb the wide crack above moving left at the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance, J.Lamb 04/May/1979.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 101Pembroke Extremes, Theo's Pembroke ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
hotsteve33 15 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best pitches anywhere, absolutely fantastic, and definately no big gear needed.
Show beta
βeta: One of the best pitches anywhere, absolutely fantastic, and definately no big gear needed.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easy to blow it by placing too much gear in the bottom half (I did!) and pumping out before you hit the crux...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy to blow it by placing too much gear in the bottom half (I did!) and pumping out before you hit the crux...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 44
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Suspense

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stennis Ford)
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