Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above. © Rockfax
FA. B.Berzins, C.Sowden 22/Aug/1981.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Trad climbs for sport climbers , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20 , The Best of Pembroke , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 26 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Public Enemy
Grade: E5 6b ***
(St. Govan's Head)