Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The magnificent hanging groove in the front arete of the block gives a popular pitch. Start by climbing up on the left then pulling across to gain a short groove above the roof. Move right into the main groove and climb it. © Rockfax
FA. D.Armstrong, P.Whillance, J.Lamb 31/Dec/1976.
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , 2021 , Pembs Ticklist , Pembs Classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| derekm | 4 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Second time round - I'm getting better at the start, despite a wet ledge to mantle on and being showered in spray from a high sea! Brilliant HVS, and quite strenuous unless you're canny with the bridging. What a position! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Second time round - I'm getting better at the start, despite a wet ledge to mantle on and being showered in spray from a high sea! Brilliant HVS, and quite strenuous unless you're canny with the bridging. What a position! |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5a if you come in from the left. E36a via direct start??? The left had variant is a pleasant E1, which would benefit from more traffic. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: HVS 5a if you come in from the left. E36a via direct start??? The left had variant is a pleasant E1, which would benefit from more traffic. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 7 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice route - horrendous start! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: nice route - horrendous start! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Galactic Co-ordinator
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)