Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
This pleasant route wanders up the left-hand side of the buttress. Climb the lower wall beneath the big open groove of Ricochet to a ledge. Trend up and leftwards to some cracks above a ledge. Climb the crack to another ledge and finish up the groove above. Take care with loose rock on this upper section. © Rockfax
FA. D.Armstrong, P.Whillance 02/Jan/1978.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gingerlings | 30 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Had the old rockfax where it was VS4c and struggled. It's a really strong burly climb, glad to see it has been regraded because there was no way it was VS4c | βeta? | |
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βeta: Had the old rockfax where it was VS4c and struggled. It's a really strong burly climb, glad to see it has been regraded because there was no way it was VS4c |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 23 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: It may be a pedantic point but it doesn't say it is an 'easy VS', it says it is an easy route. When compared to the routes on either side, this is obviously the case, however I do realise that it could be misinterpreted. I will make sure that this gets amended in any future guides. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It may be a pedantic point but it doesn't say it is an 'easy VS', it says it is an easy route. When compared to the routes on either side, this is obviously the case, however I do realise that it could be misinterpreted. I will make sure that this gets amended in any future guides. |
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| AJM | 23 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: I have to say I'm gladdened by these comments. I pottered up the start, ended up looking at the three cracks, thinking "so which of these is the easy VS then". Went up the central one after much faff on the RH one - some go-for-it style laybacking and a few awkward moves landed me on that ledge. The groove above is okay but a bit imposing. My second's eyes were very large when he topped out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have to say I'm gladdened by these comments. I pottered up the start, ended up looking at the three cracks, thinking "so which of these is the easy VS then". Went up the central one after much faff on the RH one - some go-for-it style laybacking and a few awkward moves landed me on that ledge. The groove above is okay but a bit imposing. My second's eyes were very large when he topped out. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 3 May, 2006 |
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βeta: sandbag | βeta? | |
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βeta: sandbag |
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| Jonny2vests | 3 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Either extrewmely poorly described in every guide book or somewhat undergraded. Good fun for HVS 5b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Either extrewmely poorly described in every guide book or somewhat undergraded. Good fun for HVS 5b. |
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| GrahamD | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: I don't know anyone who would class this as an 'easy' VS 4c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I don't know anyone who would class this as an 'easy' VS 4c. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Spacewalk
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)