Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

24m.

Rockfax Description
Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to reach another crack. © Rockfax

FA. D.Armstrong, P.Whillance, J.Lamb 31/Dec/1976.

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
NuclearNev 12 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I've seen loads of failed attempts and falls on this over the years. Worthy of VS 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: I've seen loads of failed attempts and falls on this over the years. Worthy of VS 5a.
drcorbasisgod 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for VS, though I disagree that Front Line is easier; I did both of these climbs in the same week. With good footwork you can make the crux less of a struggle!
βeta?
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βeta: Hard for VS, though I disagree that Front Line is easier; I did both of these climbs in the same week. With good footwork you can make the crux less of a struggle!
steveej 8 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for the grade, need lots of 'big crack' gear
βeta?
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βeta: Hard for the grade, need lots of 'big crack' gear
john horscroft 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than Army Dreamers!
βeta?
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βeta: Harder than Army Dreamers!
Chris the Tall 17 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Quite strenous, felt hard for the grade
βeta?
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βeta: Quite strenous, felt hard for the grade

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 100
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lydstep Traverse

Grade: VS ***
(Lydstep Point Area)

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