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Rockfax Description
A classic mixture of the bold and technical gives a memorable pitch. Start below a narrow ledge at 8m with an eco bolt just under its lip. Climb the smooth, pocketed initial wall to gain the bolt and narrow ledge at 8m - bold. Make an awkward mantleshelf on to the ledge, and from its left-hand side, make some fingery moves up and left to join the thin crack of Smashing of Amps and stick in some good nuts. Follow the crack to a resting ledge before tackling the thin continuation seam and crack via some technical and fingery moves to a lower-off just below the top. © Rockfax

P Smith, R Cary May/1983.


Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Great Panjandrum Himself

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Brean Down)