UKH

A superb route taking the stunning diagonal line just leftof Glasnost. It’s probable the line has never been dry enough to climb before! Start up Glasnostto just below the roof, then step left to place protection in a crack below a hanging groove. Return right and use twin aretes to move up left to undercuts below the hanging groove (wet on first ascent). Now boldly squirm up the groove to a good hold and welcome protection. Yet more hard climbing leads left to gain the base of a fine quartz crack. Finish with sustained interest up this.

Tim Rankin 2013.

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Good New Routes in Scotland

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Grade: E6 6b ***
(South Cove)
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