UKH

18m.

Rockfax Description
A strenuous and sustained pitch though with good protection throughout. High in the grade. Climb the steep finger-cracks to the small ledge on Pisa. Finish up the easier cracks above. The lower crack is hard for for the strong and the central crack is hard for the weak. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling late 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
George Frisby 26 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose blocks above the second crack, towards the top out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose blocks above the second crack, towards the top out.
Fiend 6 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is tough for that grade. Puritans will be reassured to note that enjoyment plays no role in this route whatsoever.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is tough for that grade. Puritans will be reassured to note that enjoyment plays no role in this route whatsoever.
MeMeMe 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear is great but at some points it's just too hard to stop and place it. I thought the bottom crack was the crux, I must of half climbed up it then climbed down it about half a dozen time before actually commiting to the moves.
 
Show beta
βeta: Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear is great but at some points it's just too hard to stop and place it. I thought the bottom crack was the crux, I must of half climbed up it then climbed down it about half a dozen time before actually commiting to the moves.
Jon Greengrass 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The first crack is quite technical 5c? much harder than any of the embankment finger cracks. The top finger crack is hideous (off fingers! for skinny fingered folk like myself) my technique is lacking and i couldn't make any progress.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first crack is quite technical 5c? much harder than any of the embankment finger cracks. The top finger crack is hideous (off fingers! for skinny fingered folk like myself) my technique is lacking and i couldn't make any progress.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 64
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)
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