Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most popular multi-pitch climbs - a true classic - long, varied and with a much photographed top pitch. Start below a short right-facing corner/crack 5m right of the pinnacle.
1) 28m. Climb the short right-facing corner/crack then move right to a corner and ramp that leads to a grassy bay with trees. Scramble up right to a large tree belay.
2) 10m. Scramble up past trees to a belay below twin grooves.
3) 23m. Climb the left-hand groove and, at its end, gain the top of a block. Sidle right along it and get established in a slabby corner. Follow the arete to a stance and belays.
4) 11m. Head up the wall to a small pinnacle and, from its top, climb the short steep exposed wall to the top (or the crack right of the pinnacle). © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , Very good routes in the UK , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , Must-do routes , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , ICAS Climbing Club , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Memorable Climbs , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , "First Steps" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , EUMC - Must do climbs , Nuts of Legends , York University Students path to greatness , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , 2020/21 Trips , STAUMC Ticklist , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , 22 For 2022 , LSMC to do , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , Summertime Travels 2022 , Dan’s Delights , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stanley | 12 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be run together with no rope drag. The only reason I wouldn't do that is if you want to be able to see the leader as they do the 'block move' - which is interesting! | ||
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βeta: Fantastic route. Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be run together with no rope drag. The only reason I wouldn't do that is if you want to be able to see the leader as they do the 'block move' - which is interesting! |
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| PilkingtonD | 25 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Pitch 2 doesn’t exist, climb through to the saddle from the belay on p.1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 2 doesn’t exist, climb through to the saddle from the belay on p.1 |
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| Ab Wilson | 22 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Don't bother pitching the 2nd guide book pitch. Belay pitch 3 from pitch 1 belay. I'm not going to add any beta about the block move because it's much too much fun to have to work it out for yourself. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Don't bother pitching the 2nd guide book pitch. Belay pitch 3 from pitch 1 belay. I'm not going to add any beta about the block move because it's much too much fun to have to work it out for yourself. |
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| Apollo7 | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Ended up doing pitch 3+4 together, fantastic route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ended up doing pitch 3+4 together, fantastic route |
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| raussmf | 10 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Lived up to the hype. Had the route to ourselves. Accidently did last 2 pitches in one and topped out still looking for the much hyped last pitch! Wouldn't reccomend the hard descent to the left... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lived up to the hype. Had the route to ourselves. Accidently did last 2 pitches in one and topped out still looking for the much hyped last pitch! Wouldn't reccomend the hard descent to the left... |
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| MikeStuart | 11 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Quite a few loose holds on final 2 meters of the last pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite a few loose holds on final 2 meters of the last pitch |
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| steve7264 | 8 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Fantastic, not too polished for a peak boulderer! Even with the recent rain, a lot of fun, great last pitch! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic, not too polished for a peak boulderer! Even with the recent rain, a lot of fun, great last pitch! |
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| aphelps85 | 15 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Due to footfall, very well polished rock. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Due to footfall, very well polished rock. |
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| Patrick Milne | 16 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Saddle belay block feels slightly loose. | ||
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βeta: Saddle belay block feels slightly loose. |
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| SpannerClimbs | 8 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Nicely done in 3 pitches. The belay spot for pitch 2 is full of ants so be aware! | ||
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βeta: Nicely done in 3 pitches. The belay spot for pitch 2 is full of ants so be aware! |
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| tristanorchard | 6 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: A nice route although often very busy, better taken in 3 pitches, good views from the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A nice route although often very busy, better taken in 3 pitches, good views from the top. |
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| The Coastal | 30 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Great 3 star classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great 3 star classic |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag
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Gimmer Chimney
Grade: VD ***
(Gimmer Crag)